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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.